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Photographing Miniatures
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Program Mode vs Manual Control
Lighting
The Digital Advantage
Film Photography
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The Digital Advantage

After years of taking pictures of miniatures using an SLR film camera
(see Film Photography) I have
finally bought a Nikon Coolpix 995 digital camera and now usually
use the mini-studio setup shown above to take most of the new pictures
I put on this site. A section of a unit of shelves in my study is
permanently set up as a mini-studio with lighting provided by three
normal domestic wall lights and two adjustable copy stand light arms
with 100W photoflood Tungsten bulbs. The major advantage of this setup
is that I can set up the lighting exactly how I want it before taking
a picture. See the redone
PANTZ faction pages of my Ztum-Setum website for examples of pictures
taken in this way.

When taking the pictures at friends houses or at the wargames club
I either just use the cameras own internal flashgun or supplement
it with a Centon FH-95 dedicated flash unit bounced off a Lumiquest
Promax Pocket Bouncer (above). The diffuse light from the bounced
flash gives softer shadows than using the built in flash on its own
but you cannot see exactly how the lighting will turn out before you
take a picture. This setup is highly portable and I use this setup
both for for taking pictures of wargames being played (See recent
issues of Ztum-Setum
Online News for examples of such pictures) and have also used
also used it to take pictures of units, bases or individual models
placed on one of a number of purpose built backdrops such as the one
shown above (see the ZOGs
faction page for examples of pictures taken using this setup)
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This picture was taken using just the camera's
own flashgun.
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This was taken using the setup shown above,
the cameras own flash in conjunction with an external flashgun
with its light bounced off a Lumiquest Promax Pocket Bouncer.
The diffuse light from the bounced flash gives more light and
fewer hard shadows.
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The advantages of going digital.
Having got used to using the digital camera I would hate to have
to go back to using my film SLR for miniatures work. The digital
camera allows me to look at pictures just seconds after I've taken
them and to check that the exposure, focus, depth of field framing
etc. are as desired. It is very cheap to run and I can take as many
pictures as I want virtually free of charge - just as long as I
don't want prints.
I find it hard to imagine how the Coolpix 995 could be improved
for photographing miniatures, though the autofocus is really slow,
especially in low-light/low-contrast conditions. This makes it a
dreadful camera for taking pictures of sports action, or even of the children running around, as
waht seems like several seconds can pass between the pressing of the shutter release
and the camera finally getting around to taking a picture.
Some points to consider when buying a digital camera for photographing
miniatures.
- As discussed previously (See Depth
of Field) you really want a camera offering either aperture
priority automatic exposure or, even better, full manual control
over both speed and aperture. It is only by using the smallest
possible apertures that you will get a decent depth of field and
truly sharp pictures. Many digital cameras, especially the more
affordable ones, do not offer such options.
- An image size of 2 Megapixels is more than adequate for images
taken for the web and will give decent quality prints at up to
7" x 5". But there are advantages to having large numbers of megapixels in that you can take a picture from further away, with the subject filling only part of the frame, then crop to get your final image. This will give you a better depth of field than filling the frame from close in.
- For close up work you will want either an SLR digital camera
(very expensive but highly desirable) or one with an LCD viewer
screen as compact camera viewfinders do not work at all well when
framing close up shots. The optical viewers which are often the
only method for framing a shot on cheaper compact digital cameras
suffer from a phenomenon known as parallax - the viewfinder is
offset from the lense and points at a slightly different place.
This doesn't really matter for long distance shots but the effect
becomes quite pronounced when photographing objects close up.
- Digital cameras have a wide range of abilities when it comes
to close up photography. When I was seriously looking for a camera
I found models quoting minimum focusing distances ranging from
1cm to 30 cm. Some cameras have no close up ability at all and
are therefore not really suitable for photographing miniatures.
My Coolpix 995 will focus down to 3cm, very close indeed.
- You really want manual focussing control or spot automatic
focussing. Either of these options allows you to choose exactly
where you focus in a picture and avoid the problems which can
arise when the camera's automatic systems try and focus on an
"average" object in the screen.
- The ability to connect an external flash gun to the camera
can come in handy, though it is not essential.
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